Wednesday, April 16, 2014

OH NO! - Orange


Solange, Beyonce's sister, stepped out for a Jimmy Choo launch party dressed in head to toe orange:


Oh No.

Its not even that this is an orange overload (it is).

Its that none of these items should have ever been put together, no matter their color.

Too much of a good thing is real, ladies. And it hurts your eyeballs.

The Ultimate: A Black Skirt


After black pants, the ultimate heave lifter in every woman's closet, the black skirt is indubitably the most multi-tasking, versatile, and frequently worn item of clothing.

It can be dressed up (higher heels, dressier top, brighter lipsitck) or down (no heels, casual top, pale lipstick); it can go from an office (with a blazer and pumps) to the beach (loose shirt and flipflops); and it can be equally useful in winter (with a sweater, opaque black tights, and boots) as in the summer (Tshirt, nude legs, and sandals) as well as any weather in between.

Bear with me as we run down the basic guidelines in searching for the ultimate black skirt.

There are three maxims you need to remember when choosing a black skirt:

Precisely because the black skirt promises and delivers such extreme use-value I believe that you should invest in it. Get something that's made well and it will remain in constant rotation in your closet for a long time.

Precisely because the black skirt  serves many functions and situations I believe that it should remain relatively simple in cut, timeless, without distracting and quickly outdated design elements. This is not your faddish item.

Precisely because the black skirt gets so much wearing time it should be maximally flattering to your figure. Like so:

CUT:
The cut almost universally flattering is a pencil skirt - ideally from a material with some stretch in it but also a decent weight. The skirt must be tapered close to the figure throughout.

Fuller, pleated skirts are fun but they are tougher to pair correctly and many feel they are a dressier, fussier choice.

An uneven hem (either a tulip cut, or a modified wrap) can be flattering as well. Depends on the execution.

Yes, this is the best cut even if you are not as trim as you would wish to be or if you have a muffin top that you hate. The best skirts will keep your flab in check and if you calibrate the top correctly and/or wear proper foundation garments you avoid a muffin top.
(check out Mindy Kailing, definitely not the slimmest lady around, rocking it:


LENGTH:
The length almost universally flattering is right at the knee bone, not above and not below it, obscuring half the knee cap. I would not suggest going any longer unless you're tall. Shorter, on the other hand, can be great if:
- you are narrow hipped
- you have enviable legs that you want to show off

SLIT:
I am biased against front-placed slits. Don't know why. Feel free to overlook said preference.

COST:
There are plenty great, well executed black skirts in the mid-price range (WANT). If you go higher I suggest going for some unexpected detail/

All this in mind, take a look at some suggestions, ladies:

DREAM

1) The Row:
2) Max Mara:

3) Narciso, a less traditional option: 

4) Alexander Wang, likewise less traditional:


WISH:

1) Ted Baker, perfect tailoring & seams:

2) Vince:

3) Alexander Wang - with pockets!!



WANT:

1) DKNY: 




Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Seasonal Dressing - The Spring Shoe III


The last of the seasonal shoes we will discuss here today, ladies, is the loafer. That staple of preppy closets for generations has been on the outs with the fashion world until recently. It has been making a steady comeback over the past couple of years.  Slightly more substantial than the ubiquitous ballet flat, it can be very serviceable in a closet..

What do we want in a loafer?

- not too delicate but neither too cloggy of a shape. You don't want to look like an accountant (not that there is anything wrong with it).
- some elevation.
- black black black. Although an introduction of another color in addition is welcome. If well done.
- avoid the cousin of the loafer, the moccasin, like the plague.

Like so (and in this case, ladies, the WANT is better than all other price point categories!):

Dream:
1) Lim, at Barney's:

2)  Barney's:

Wish:

1) ASOS:


Want:

1) Zara:

Seasonal Dressing - The Spring Shoe II


The problem with ankle boots is, of course, that they should never, ever, be worn with skirts.

I don't care how great your legs are. It is just a lousy look.

So what to do, ye ask?

Oxfords. Or, as they are known in the UK - brogues.  Oxfords paired with even dark hoisery still manage to look lighter and more season-appropriate. And they have that slight gender-bending aspect that is a huge positive in my book.

I love oxfords.

That said, not all oxfords are created equal.

Some ground rules:
- A shape close to menswear, but not too clunky and heavy OR not too delicate is the best.
- Avoid Avoid Avoid anything that looks like bear paws, anything that reads 'comfort'!
-  Don't go for the flattest heel - some elevation always helps.
- Color? I usually vote for black, and recent injections of color into the sole make it even better.

Here are some options, ladies, in our usual gradation of price and lust:

Dream:

1) Church, Barneys: 

Wish:

1) Beau Coop, Shopbop:
2) Cole Haan
or, same in different color:

Want:

1) Bass, Nordstrom's:
2) ASOS:
3) Born, Zappos:

Seasonal Dressing: The Spring Shoe


Spring, as lovely as it is, is a tricky season to dress for - as witnessed by the many missteps in  looks put together by professional stylists and as discussed in the pages of this young blog.

What makes it so tough?

The weather, for one. Its sheer unpredictability, the rapid change from sun to rain, from warm to cold, make it super rough on planning a good look - an outfit perfectly appropriate for dreary chill will not only feel but also look out of place if the weather turns.

The other problem is shoes. We are all sick by now of knee high boots, the staple of winter-time. What to wear then? The problem is especially acute if you're inclined to wearing skirts. Too cold for sandals it is too warm for knee-highs, and what is left in between?

There are, of course, pumps. And for those who work in an atmosphere where pumps do not appear overly dressy - you are in luck. The rest of us, however, need a substitution.

There are, of course, flats. But flats look good only on a bare foot. And sometimes you need a sock in this weather!

Solution 1: The Ankle Bootie.

Especially in a paler shade than black.
But not brown.
A more versatile tan or gray.

And not too-cowboy-like one.

A little rough, a little refined. Like so:

Dream:

1) Alexander Wang at Shopbop (LUST):
2) Rachel Comey (a brand I love) at Creatures of Comfort (a store I adore) :
3) Barneys NY:

Wish:

Beau Coop at Shopbop (great color):


Want:

1) Sam Edelman at Shopbop





Monday, April 14, 2014

When Good Clothes happen to Good People, but happen Badly.


Emma Stone, who is adorable, wore this for the new Spiderman tour:


The dress is not bad, in and of itself. 
The shoes are not bad, in and of themselves. 

The issues here are not even that the two do not belong together. Although I don't think they do.

First off, this is too heavy for spring. 
Secondly, this is too heavy for her - for her frame.  
Thirdly, the shoe shouldn't add to the already bulky dress. 

Leather can be great, ladies. But with  leather, like with other dangerous things - moderation is key. 


Tight much?



Duchess Kate demonstrates why jeans that are too tight (aka jeggins) are not ok.

Sure, they are perfectly fine for running to get your kids - in fact better than those ratty old gym pants we're all tempted to put on.

But not for anything that calls for a sharper style.

This is just a bad look - badly balanced, cheap, blaaah.