Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Seasonal Dressing - Springtime Sweaters


Yesterday, the day of the Boston Marathon, I spent outside, in a park just coming awake from winter, with the boy-child. Sun was shining and it looked deceptively warm - which it was not. Seasonal dressing in the Northeast, where the weather is changeable to the extreme, is a tricky thing ladies. I was COLD.

Besides, dressing for the season seems to be a lost art. Even the stylists of Vogue - ! - for their spring editorial managed to mis-dress Emma Stone, who has been cited for violation of this same code a couple of times already in the virtual pages of this blog. Here's what Vogue came up with:

How is this a springtime look???

 I'll stop harping on the mis-styling of Miz Stone. She will do just fine despite it. So where were we?

 One of the most important items of clothing in your arsenal is a lightweight sweater, something soft and cosy that won't feel too heavy or bulky. JCrew, in its advertising genius calls it 'featherweight'.  A pullover made with silk, or linen, or superfine merino or cashmere, or some combination of the above. A layer of perfectly calibrated warmth against a chilly wind.

- in a light, springtime color, but nothing too 'Queen of England' dowdy
- with an updated funky shape

Like so, in our usual price-point gradation:

DREAM:
*1) Bloomingdales (Lust!):

2) JCrew: 
3) Barneys: 

4) Yoox: 

*5) Jil Sander (adore!) and an Orange Crush!:

WISH:
1) Ombre:


2) Club Monaco:  I know I said lighter color.. But who can resist a cool black?
3) Yoox (And it also comes in Orange)!:
3) Yoox:

*4) Armani - so perfectly simple! (Lust):


WANT:

1) Zara had by far the best featherweight sweaters for the price point:
2) Zara: 

3) Zara yet again, and no, it is not a pullover, but I couldn't resist the color:
4) Madewell - you know I can't resist a sailor look:

Monday, April 21, 2014

Christ has risen, Hats aloft!


No parade is as sartorially inspiring as New York's Easter Parade. Given its focus on fantastical headgear it is, for all intents and purposes, America's answer to Ascot. People don't just show up. No ladies, they COMMIT!

Just for you I have trolled the internets to cull the best, craziest, most creative hats out there. Enjoy!


A Provocative Point of View

 Robin Givhan, the former fashion editor of Washington Post whose claim to fame were sartorial take-downs of first ladies, aims for the blogosphere's juggular this time around, arguing in the following piece for the NYMag that fashion blogging is no longer the speedy train to stardom it once was. Check it out below, and weigh in!


The Golden Era of ‘Fashion Blogging’ Is Over


Until about a decade ago, there had always been an unwritten protocol when seated in the front row of a fashion show. Do not lean forward. Keep your legs tucked neatly under your seat, your handbag out of camera range, and any papers discreetly in your lap. Maintain a poker face. And do not take pictures. Seriously.
It’s hard to believe, but back before the dawn of the 21st century, it was the rare editor who dared lift a camera to snap a shot of a model as she stormed past. Gilles Bensimon, the former creative director of Elle Magazine, was the most notable violator of this unwritten rule. Dressed in his signature white jeans, Bensimon — a professional photographer — regularly took pictures from his front-row perch. But others who attempted such sacrilege were not given the same leeway. Gladys Perint Palmer, the former fashion editor of the San Francisco Examiner, was an accomplished illustrator and often took photographs to inspire her drawings. On multiple occasions, I sat stunned as security guards practically tackled her when she pulled out her camera at a show.
Unauthorized photography was taboo, because the fashion industry was a walled-off community of designers, editors, and retailers. Information was embargoed. Shows were not live-streamed. Access was given grudgingly.
In the mid-2000s, however, bloggers changed that dynamic.
These fashion guerillas hoisted their digital cameras, their iPhones, and their iPads aloft in order to capture the drama on the runway — and its environs — and transmit it directly to their followers. They live-blogged and they tweeted and they initiated a real-time conversation where once only silence existed. The first generation of bloggers, such as Bryan YambaoSusanna LauTavi Gevinson, andScott Schuman were contrarians. In their words and images, there was an earnest and raw truth that did not exist in traditional outlets. They had unique points of view and savvy marketing strategies. They had a keen awareness of how technology could help them attract the attention of hundreds of thousands of like-minded fashion fans who had been shut out of the conversation. 
Soon, the fashion world signaled its wholehearted approval. By 2008, Marc Jacobs had named a handbag after Bryanboy, who created the template of the self-referential fashion blogger when he began kibitzing online in 2004. In 2009, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana seeded their front row with Bryanboy, Tommy Ton,Schuman, and Garance Doré, who were expected to live-blog the show. And by 2010, a reporter from Grazia tweeted her displeasure at being stuck behind the view-blocking Stephen Jones plumage of Gevinson as she sat front row at a Christian Dior couture show in Paris.
Longtime editors realized that some of these self-created young men and women — many of whom had not paid their dues fetching coffee and steaming samples — now had a personal audience of a half-million people. The reach of bloggers threatened to upend the traditional hierarchy of fashion coverage.
Slowly, the legacy media fought back. Editors went on the offensive. Glamour editor Cindi LeiveLucky’s Eva Chen,  Joe Zee(formerly of Elle)Nina Garcia of Marie Claire — the very people who once were envied for their front-row view of fashion week — were now tapping out quips and bon mots to all who would listen. Legacy editors began watching the runway from the backside of their iPhone cameras as they shared their up-close views with the virtual world. Critics, instead of reserving their droll commentary for post-show dinner patter, now spewed it fast and succinctly on Twitter.
With everyone from powerhouse editors-in-chief to creative directors and standard-bearing critics playing the social-media game, the singular advantage that social media once offered bloggers is no longer so clear. The same intimate tone, once unique to those initial disrupters, can now be found in the Twitter feeds of print folks such as Chen, Derek Blasberg, and Mickey Boardman. They live-blog while at shows, while zipping through airports, while touring art exhibitions, while vacationing. They un-self-consciously share from all corners of their fashion lives.
The distance between the Establishment and fashion’s once-dazzling revolutionaries has narrowed, and there is minimal distinction between them. Because what the fashion industry loves, it woos — then swallows whole. 
Bryanboy told me he doesn’t consider himself an “insider,” but evidence suggests his generation of bloggers is no longer made up of “outsiders” either.
Fashion followers can thank bloggers for making fashion coverage more democratic and forcing design houses to accept (and then exploit) the reality that very little communication is for insiders’ ears only. But, now that so many bloggers have been embraced by the industry — and the Old Guard has learned to keep up with social media — is there still an opportunity for new voices at shows? And if so, what kind of voices can still flourish?
“The thing that was different for the first generation was [most of us] rarely put ourselves on our blogs. The newer generation is all about themselves. What can we get out of this? It’s much, much more about self-promotion,” says Schuman, who, along with Doré, won a CFDA award in 2012. “It’s me, me, me. Look at me. Aren’t I cool? Look at this bright, shiny world I’m portraying.”
"Who am I to say don’t take the handbag, or don’t take advantage of the opportunities," Schuman adds. “But don’t expect people to respect what you do.”
“We’re getting to a tipping point. People are starting to push back,” he says. “They want to be able to believe what [bloggers] are saying.”
While the virtual world may be limitless, real-world guest lists are finite. There are only so many seats at fashion shows. As the media environment has changed, there are more seats being allocated to digital media. Yet, those additional seats are mostly occupied by the online editors of print publications.
“In the original grid, it was very clear what each person did,” says Rachna Shah, managing director of KCD Digital. “Now there are so many ways you can be involved in fashion coverage. A blogger might get backstage access but might be asked to stand at the show. The question is: What do they need from the show? To interview the designer? To see the show? To have their picture taken in front of the show?”
As Leandra Medine, founder of the Man Repeller, wrote in an email, personal-style blogs still “[seem] to gain incredible traction — which is vastly admirable in its own right — similarly to the way reality television stars did in the early aughts.”
The more nuanced lifestyle, contextualized, opinion-driven blog “takes a bit more time to establish itself, finesse its point and earn the following,” Medine said. “Of course the question is really what happens long term, but I don't have an answer.”
The Establishment, however, will not give up ground easily. And mostly, newcomers are drawn to fashion, not because they are determined to change it, but because they are mesmerized by it. They want to be the next Anna Wintour — not make her existence obsolete. They love fashion. And fashion loves them back. Then swallows them whole.

The Ultimate: Denim Jacket


Insomuch as the denim jacket is a basic staple that lasts  many a fashion season, it could be tagged under 'Dress Your Life.' It is the perfect summery outerlayer. It pairs best with dresses and skirts - it has the fit and length that flatters supremely over a dress. When wearing with a dress you are also less likely to committ the cardinal sin of denim: you will almost never make the mistake of pairing, say, a blue denim bottom with a blue denim jacket.

Repeat after me, ladies: NO to the Canadian Tuxedo! (Not that there is anything wrong with Canada).

Basic rules of the denim jacket:
Say No:
-  say no to oversized and boxy
- say no to embellished, bedazzled, or be-laced
- say no to a different cut, moto, blazer, or trench in denim
- say no to denim vests

Say Yes:
- slim but not too curvy of a fit
- distressed, soft feel
- ends at natural waistline
- perfect blue: not too bright

I like, and own a black denim jacket. That said there is somethign utterly irresistable about the original item, that perfect piece of Americana - the blue denim jacket.

Here's a rundown of offers from various retailers:


DREAM:
1) Mother (nicely distressed quality, just the perfect amount):

**2) Velvet: (the most perfect dark wash,  lust!)



WISH:
1) Jcrew: 


WANT:
1) Gap:


Sunday, April 20, 2014

Of Lice and Women


On the car-ride to the Seder, the traditional Passover meal during which Jews are obligated by custom and history to retell the story of exodus to their offspring, my boy-child excitedly informed us that to his horror, Pharaoh had lice!  Of all the ten plagues that God inflicted on Ancient Egypt for not letting my people go, my very own offspring was most impressed with lice.

Lice, you see, was the thing he could imagine best. It had no mythic removal to it, no improbable cause. It was, simply, real, because about once every month we would get a note from his school's nurse notifying us that some unfortunate child in the grade was afflicted with this pestilence.

The misfortune of the child is miniscule in comparison to the horror of the parent treating said sad affliction. Some opted for nuking their kids heads on a routine basis. Others deployed nit pickers. Still others went for every known remedy, from olive oil to mayo.

Me? I start scratching my head as soon as 'li' escapes someone's lips, second syllabel no longer necessary for comprehension.

Lice, indeed, is the worst of the plagues.

For John Turturro however, lice offered a premise of romantic entanglement!

A new movie, "Fading Gigolo" directed by him, features Vanessa Paradis as his Hassidic nit picker love object. I can't imagine a premise more hallucinatory, or more perfect. Ladies, methinks a movie date is in order. All of ye recently stricken surely must be in!

Here's David Edlestein's review in NYMag:





Fading Gigolo Is So Crazy That It’s … Fun

When John Turturro writes and directs, the wiry actor becomes a florid romantic, a cheerleader for abbondanza and passione. (The latter is the title of his wonderful documentary about the music of Naples.) His new film, Fading Gigolo, is a hymn to the healing sensuous touch. He has cast himself as a diffident, gentle Manhattan florist named Fioravante who’s tapped by his friend Murray (Woody Allen), the owner of a failed used bookstore, to work as a high-priced prostitute. You read that correctly: Woody Allen is John Turturro’s pimp. And it turns out that Fioravante — not, by his own admission, conventionally handsome and certainly not young — is catnip for the ladies, some (Sharon Stone, Sofía Vergara) wowzas in their own right. He treats them like the fragile flowers they are — and they bloom. But Fioravante’s professional gunslinger detachment is tested when Murray hooks him up with an ultra-Orthodox widow, Avigal (Vanessa Paradis), one of those Jewish “lice ladies” who pick nits out of kids’ (and their parents’) hair. As Avigal begins to smile a lot, a lovelorn Orthodox law-enforcement type (Liev ­Schreiber) from her close-knit Brooklyn neighborhood monitors her comings and goings from Fioravante’s apartment — and the florist begins to think about putting down roots of his own.
What hallucinogen was Turturro on when he came up with this plot? It’s so crazy that it’s … fun. You have to set aside the endless improbabilities and impossibilities and acceptFading Gigolo as a fairy tale devised by a man who’s philosophically committed to the idea that life is a romantic commedia and that the only sin is not acting on one’s feelings. It’s okay to cringe from time to time — you have to cringe at lines like “You bring magic to the lonely.” The scenes with the glittery-eyed Stone and Vergara (who want Fioravante for a threesome) don’t quite rise above their one-joke premise (the women are projections), but Paradis takes things to a different level. She quivers under Fioravante’s touch, like an oyster. The tears that spring into her big eyes on that tiny face evoke a world of solitude and self-­effacement that must quickly be counteracted.

What puts Fading Gigolo over the top is the presence of Allen, who’s just the sort of earthy, fast-talking foil the moony Turturro needs. It’s true that Allen is 90 percent shtick: the falsetto stammer, the compulsive gesticulations, the Groucho-vaulting eyebrows. But in this context he’s like a figure out of commedia dell’arte, and you can properly savor how musical — how jazzy — those tics and stammers are. When Orthodox enforcers kidnap Murray and make him sit before a high rabbinic tribunal, Turturro brings in Bob Balaban as Murray’s lawyer, and Allen and Balaban have the sort of instant rapport that suggests a great Jewish comedy team. Murray lives with an ­African-American woman (Tonya Pinkins) and a passel of young kids who call him their uncle, and watching Allen play baseball with black kids in Prospect Park fulfills a different kind of fantasy: Turturro has sprung Allen from his insular world and returned him to his outer-borough roots.
Fading Gigolo is such an uninhibited, healthy sort of sex movie that it’s a shame I have to acknowledge the elephant in the room. This is Allen’s first appearance since the latest wrinkle in a decades-old scandal, and while I have no desire to add my ignorance to the sum of all ignorance, by notacknowledging the (credible) accusations of sexual abuse — by saying, “It’s no one’s business but this family’s” — we effectively shun the accuser, Dylan Farrow, whose explicit point is “This is everybody’s business.” On the other hand, we can’t convict a man without evidence. So we are in limbo, and there is no good way to wrap up this review.
*This article appears in the April 21, 2014 issue of New York Magazine.

Saturday, April 19, 2014

Libraries, a thing of the past?


LP was taking kids to NYC and I sent her to the Morgan library. They loved it. It got me thinking about libraries - how wonderfully beautiful I think some are, how much I loved walking the dust filled hallways of Widener. How much  I might miss it.

What will happen when books disappear, and all we have are e-readers? Will libraries disappear as well?

And since I couldn't find a clip of St. Etienne's "Lost in a Library" here's "Only love can break us apart"



For your viewing pleasure, below is a BBC photo story of UK libraries. But here are pics of some others that I personally adore:

Morgan Library:


Stacks at Widener, utterly not glam, but oh so wonderfully rich:


Salle Ovale at Bibliotheque National:

Labrouste Library, also in France:

Snapshot: 10 Photos of the Most Epic Libraries in the U.K.


With the digital age making information available at the click of a button, it’s easy for some to forget about the draw of a library. But there’s nothing like walking into a library, with so much material in front of you, all under one roof. The best bit, it’s quiet!
Let’s take a peek at some of the U.K.’s impressive libraries with this snapshot of 10 photos:
(AP Photo/Lefteris Pitarakis)
Guys, turn around, there’s so much inside! The British Library, in London, has preserved a copy of every book, pamphlet, magazine and newspaper published in Britain. (AP/Lefteris Pitarakis)
British Library and St. Pancras station beyond, London, England,
The British Library is offset by the St. Pancras station. (Charles Bowman/Robert Harding/AP)
Entranceway the British Library, London, England, United Kingdom
Just in case you forget where you are. (Ethel Davies/Robert Harding/AP)
Visitors sitting in front of Statue of Charles Darwin outside Pu ... (Peter Barritt/Robert Harding/AP)
Visitors sit in front of the Charles Darwin statue outside of the Shrewsbury public library in Shropshire, England. (Peter Barritt/Robert Harding/AP)
Central Library and tram, Manchester, England, United Kingdom ... (Charles Bowman/Robert Harding/AP)
Manchester, England’s Central Library is accessible by tram. (Charles Bowman/Robert Harding/AP)
Central Library, St. Peter's Square, Manchester, England, United (Peter Richardson/Robert)
The Central Library was built between 1930 and 1934.  (Peter Richardson/Robert)
Eton College Library, Eton, Berkshire, England, United Kingdom (Robert Harding Productions/AP)
Eton College Library, located in Eton, Berkshire, England, was built between 1725 and 1729. (Robert Harding Productions/AP)
The Royal Exchange, now Stirling Library, Glasgow, Scotland, Uni (Adam Woolfitt/Robert Harding/AP)
The Stirling’s Library was moved into the Gallery of Modern Art, in Glasgow, Scotland in 1954. (Adam Woolfitt/Robert Harding/AP)
The Radcliffe Camera, Oxford, Oxfordshire, England, United Kingd ... (Neale Clark/Robert Harding/AP)
Oxford’s Radcliffe Camera is home to the Radcliffe Science Library in Oxford, England. (Neale Clark/Robert Harding/AP)
Earl of Pembroke statue, Bodleian Library, Oxford, Oxfordshire ... (Jean Brooks/Robert Harding/AP)
The combined collections of the Bodleian Libraries, also at Oxford, number more than 11 million printed items. (Jean Brooks/Robert Harding/AP)

Dress Your Life - The Outer Layer

Remember the Manifesto?

Dressing for a special event is easy. Dressing for your everyday life, with its routines, disappointments, and frustrations is much more difficult. It requires greater emotional reserves, a much more worn and disregarded wardrobe,  and, usually a tighter budget.

 Ladies, dressing your life is all about commitment!

Commit to looking good on a daily basis, no discounts for rushed school runs, no leeway for monthly bloating.

You don’t need to buy much. You already own decent jeans, I’m certain. There are tops that lie in your closet that look good – don’t save them for special appearances, wear ‘em.

The first thing I suggest getting is an everyday kind of outer layer.  A utility jacket, if you will. That’s what people will see you on regularly.  

Yes, it needs to be seasonally appropriate. 
Yes, in New England in means not just one but probably a couple of coats. Although you can layer. 

What do we look for in an outer layer:
- casual, sporty, but not too, ahem, 'rugged' look. 
- Personally, I need pockets, and the bigger the better, because I hate shlepping handbags on school runs.
- Warm, but not too warm. 

Most importantly, it needs to look good, not like something you would wear hiking. Like something you could wear to work. 

So here are some suggestions, appropriate for the 50s F temperature zone, mostly in the budget "WANT" price point:

DREAM:

1) Bloomingdales by Barbour, the original utility jacket maker: 



WISH:



WANT:

1) Zappos, perfectly affordable at $64.99: 


2) A Fleece Jacket by O'neill :
3) 6 PM (a great discount site) Fleece jacket