Friday, April 25, 2014

One More on Forgotten Lives


I posted about the found art of Vivian Maier a couple of days ago and now I came accross another thoughtful review of the recent documentary from the Daily Beast's Malcolm Jones. I confess that I never researched deeply into the narrative of this particular found artists, gleaning what I did from casual perusal of the New Yorker and some such. Which is why this latest addition is welcome.

Here, judge for yourselves:


Vivian Maier: Still Missing


After discovering a trove of unknown photographs at an auction, John Maloof set about exposing the nanny-cum-artist who took them. But does ‘Finding Vivian Maier’ tell the whole story?

Somewhere around the midpoint of the fascinating but ultimately troubling documentary Finding Vivian Maier, one of the people being interviewed says of Maier’s story,  “I find the mystery of it more interesting than the work itself.” 

By the time we hear this comment, we have seen and heard more than enough to make the statement sound almost innocuous. Maier was an unknown photographer whose pictures and negatives began turning up in Chicago storage lockers in 2007. Inside trunks and boxes and suitcases filled with clothes, curios, and old newspapers were photo albums, loose prints by the thousands, and hundreds of rolls of undeveloped film. 
As the work was posted online, people were astonished. Here were pictures that ranked with some of the best street photography of the last 75 years. And the range was equally startling: Besides unblinking shots of bums and derelicts on Chicago streets, there were tender shots of children and the old, and exquisite abstract studies of shadows and light made by everything from streetlights to bicycle spokes. This was a woman with an insatiable appetite for the visual world and the talent to capture it on film. 
The work was not widely publicized until after Maier’s death in 2009. At that point, the tabloid quality of the story gave it viral pop: An anonymous nanny had taken thousands of museum-quality photographs but chose not to exhibit them or share them with almost anyone while she lived. The story condensed almost too perfectly to headline-sized subtlety: Mary Poppins With a Camera.

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Vivian Maier/Maloof Collection, Courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York

To be sure, Maier was eccentric: a friendless, secretive spinster who spent her life caring for other people’s children. She was a hoarder and a person of uncertain origin: was she French or merely someone pretending to be French? On a tape found in one of those storage lockers, she can be heard supervising a game among her young charges where identities are being assigned. When one of the children asks who Maier will be, she responds, “I am the mystery woman.” 
The real mystery, however, is what made that woman take those pictures, and on this subject the film is not much help, although no one seems too disturbed by that. Since it appeared in theaters this month, the documentary has received rave reviews, and understandably: Finding Vivian Maier tells a strange and intriguing story, and filmmakers John Maloof and Charlie Siskel deserve the praise they’ve received.
But as I watched the film, small alarms kept going off in my head, because questions are raised—or at least implied—but never satisfactorily answered. 
Why does Maloof present himself as the sole discoverer of Maier’s work? If you read the stories that appeared several years ago when the pictures first surfaced, you know that at least three people, including Maloof, found the photos when the contents of Maier’s Chicago storage lockers were auctioned off. This is a major part of the story because it revolves around who owns what, who decides which of Maier’s images the public will see and in what form, who stands to profit, and ultimately who gets to tell and define her story. 
Why does Finding Vivian Maier spend so much time interviewing the people, now grown, that she once tended as a nanny? Almost none of these people have much illuminating to say about her, other than that she was weird, secretive, and not always very nice. Moreover, most of the witnesses knew her not in her prime, but when she was older. 

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Vivian Maier/Maloof Collection, Courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York

And why does Maloof rush past any serious consideration of the quality of the photographs? True, the film offers lots of examples of the pictures, most of which are stunning. But aside from bringing in noted photographers Joel Meyerowitz and Mary Ellen Mark to vouch for Maier’s talent, the film doesn’t trouble itself much with esthetic questions, such as, what exactly makes them great, or how singular or imitative are they? Instead, the film almost bullies us into accepting their greatness.
When Maloof approached the Museum of Modern Art and offered to sell them Maier’s work, MoMA turned him down, he says, because they were uneasy about, among other things, posthumously printing a photographer’s work. Maloof dismisses the objection as “bogus,” pointing out that a fair number of noted photographers hated doing their own printing or weren’t very good at it. And he cites examples of photographers, such as Garry Winogrand, whose undeveloped negatives are still being printed long after his death. What he doesn’t point out is that we have plenty of evidence of how Winogrand printed while he was alive. 
For that matter, we have plenty of evidence of how Maier herself printed, including the fact that she cropped a lot of her images, while the people printing and selling her work today use the square, uncropped image straight from the negative. Not that they have much choice, since no one can say how Maier might have cropped any given image—a little, a lot, not at all—there’s no way to know. The safe bet is to simply print the whole negative. But this raises the first of many troubling questions surrounding this strange legacy: Is the posthumous archive being sold today truly her work, or the work of the people who now own it? What would she have kept, and what would she have trashed? Surely the people into whose hands the work has fallen have a right to publish what they discovered, but when the artist herself is removed from the equation, it becomes a very tricky business. 
Wherever you may stand on these questions, they are legitimate. None of this should be dismissed as merely a matter of institutional stupidity. Maloof could have made an interesting movie even more interesting if he had more directly engaged those curators with whom he disagrees instead of merely treating them as hidebound bureaucrats supposedly terrified by the idea that the public—the public!—could decide who was great and who was not.
Indeed, a very good film could be made on the subject of who decides who is an artist or who isn’t, especially in the neo-populist era of the web. Not so long ago, gallery owners, collectors, and museum curators were the arbiters of greatness. Maier’s story did an end run on all that. People saw the photographs online and went crazy, and the photography world found itself playing catch up. 
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Vivian Maier/Maloof Collection, Courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York

A film that does address that issue, and a lot more, is last year’s award-winning BBC documentary by Jill Nicholls, The Vivian Maier Mystery. This film interviews Ron Slattery and Jeffrey Goldstein, who were also instrumental in unearthing and publicizing Maier’s work (Maloof refused to cooperate with the BBC film because he was working on his own movie.) It spends some time with the children Maier nannied, but it also interviews men who worked in the Chicago camera shops she frequented and the film archive where she attended old movies (Buster Keaton, with an audience full of children, was a favorite.) And it directly addresses the tricky issue of who decides how Maier’s work is presented to the public.
“I’ll be the first to honor the quality of the work,” says photographer Joel Meyerowitz in the BBC documentary (he’s one of the few people interviewed for both films). “I’m concerned because we only see what the people who bought the suitcases decided to edit, and what kind of editors are they? What would she have edited out of this work and what would she have printed? How do any of us know who the real Vivian Maier is?” 
Pamela Bannos, a photographer who teaches at Northwestern University, takes this idea a step further, saying in the BBC film that Maier has been turned into a mystery woman by the people who now own her work, that the Maier we think we know “has been invented by people who love a good story.”
Bannos has done extensive research on Maier, to the point where she can tell you precisely where Maier stood in the Bowery in New York City in the summer of 1952 to take a particular photograph. And while she’s quite willing to accept that there is much about Maier that we will never know, she also points out that what facts we possess tell us more than the “mystery woman” scenario makes room for. 
Maier, for example, was the American-born daughter and granddaughter of French emigrant women who were live-in servants, the same occupation Maier would take up. She lived both in France and America as a child, traveled the world alone, and most crucially, almost surely knew what was going on in the photography world when she was shooting what Bannos says is her best work in the ’50s.
“She thought of herself as a photographer,” Bannos said in an interview with The Daily Beast, and the task now is not to enhance the mystery but to strip away as much as possible, to know Maier as clearly as we can. But that, says Bannos, is no easy task when so much money is at stake (new prints from Maier’s negatives now go for $2,000 and up, and vintage prints by the artist go for thousands more), and when the people who own the various pieces of what Bannos calls“Vivian Maier’s fractured archive” have become exceedingly proprietary. “This is a woman—and it’s a woman’s story—whose legacy is in the hands of all these men.” 
In a perfect world, the people who uncovered Maier’s work would profit from itand share what they have with scholars and the public. Until we know what’s in that decidedly fractured and closely held archive, we can’t make a thorough assessment of how good Maier was or even what kind of photographer she was. Her real life—the life we care about and not all the eccentric, mystery woman stuff—is in the pictures. Until the work can be seen as a whole, as a body of work, Maier will indeed remain a mystery.    

Nostalgia Friday - The Concert T


Growing up rather nerdy in Jerusalem I never made it to too many concerts of Western stars. Growing up the oldest of two, to Soviet-born parents, I made it to seriously good music rather later than high-school. The only concert I could have gone to, just last year (my annus horribilis), was dying to go to,  had tickets to, and to my abject horror, dismay, and a mountain of regret forgot about in the shitstorm that my life was at that point  - was Leonard Cohen's.  I'm inconsolable.

And so most of my big time concerts are imaginary, concerts of singers or bands who never made to Israel of the late 80s to begin with, conerts of singers or bands whose artistic lifespan did not coincide with my own. Same goes for concert Ts. I've never been to a Blondie concert but I easily see myself there, wiser and older but cool and young, and I would love to have a well-worn, well-washed Blondie concert T, like the one JV sports:


And so ladies, for your Nostalgia Friday's enjoyment here is "A Heart of Glass":



And NYMag's  lovely take on this topic of rocker nostalgia, real or imagined:

Etsy, the Place of Dreams Deferred



Sometimes a garment haunts you. I have coveted so much clothing throughout the years that, for reasons of cost or practicality, I didn't buy when I had the opportunity — glittery Marc Jacobs mary janes; a kelly-green Tsumori Chisato frock; Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent sandals with little cherries on the toe. Among all those pieces, it's been a single item that I've thought about most: a white Nike T-shirt featuring Andre Agassi's dot-matrix silhouette frozen permanently in a passionate serve, accented with aqua, salmon, and lavender graphics. The T-shirt of my discontent. As a burgeoning tennis fan the moment I laid eyes upon it in — '92? '93? — I needed it, in the way that the newly teenaged with celebrity crushes need all the signature gear.
Prickly at age 13, I dragged my mother by her arm into the Foot Locker where the shirt hung, pristine on the rack, and begged. She was a single mother working triple shifts — it was pricey, no go. I understood, but I also sulked, cried, probably raged at some point, knowing my disposition then. Less than a year later, I gave up tennis altogether, moving on to more salient interests. In adulthood, however, I would revisit this moment often as I scrolled through Etsy, hoping to one day reunite with the Agassi shirt, reconciling our missed connection. It's not that the shirt is currently essential to my wardrobe, or even that I can detail the nuances of Andre Agassi's career, past the blip in '92 when I cared (and that time he married, then divorced, Brooke Shields). Rather, the T-shirt was a symbol of a certain kind of heartache, connected to both the struggles of high school — if I owned the shirt, I would have better fit in — and the way-more-real struggles of my mom and the jobs she held down back then.
Three weeks ago, I Googled the shirt. There it was, on Etsy, for $35 — affordable to me now, and just a $15 markup from its original 1992 price! The seller's description, in that perfectly conversational Etsy tone:
Ace of Heart's Andre Agassi in this SWEET and thrashed Nike tee. Excellent giant 90s style action graphic of Andre. This extra loved oversized piece has amazing one of a kind character. There are several holes, the sleeves and collar have fun wear all as pictured. All of which helps it win a grand slam in true vintage uniqueness :)   
I immediately copped this SWEET and thrashed Nike tee, and when it arrived in the mail, smelling of fabric softener, I called my mom.
My friend Michael calls Etsy a place of "dreams deferred" — a literal and philosophical site where adults rediscover the styles that they could not wear in their youths (cost, age, conservative upbringing, etc.) and finally actualize who they used to want to be. As a vintage marketplace, eBay is technically similar, but its vastness underscores that it is a locus of transactions, rather than intimacy. Etsy has also been a key player in '90s nostalgia (and now, as time soldiers on, early-2000s nostalgia) where, for several years and counting, vintage retailers who may well have been born in '91 display their goods with stylized photos of themselves or their friends wearing them, swathed in neon-green lipstick, septum piercings, and multiple-bun Björk hairdos against backdrops crafted with Blingee or similar remedial/retro computer art programs. In adulthood, Etsy allows us to live the youths we couldn't.
In the past several years, I've trawled Etsy to stock up my own throwback jams in a way that has, loosely, mirrored the overall cultural nostalgia for the '90s and '00s, for better or for worse. I spent much of 2011 plugging in "rave" as a search term, recalling the hologramlike vinyl skirts and the allover-white platform nurse shoes I was too shy to wear in '96 (despite spending a good amount of that era with my face pressed to subwoofers), hoping to catch the spirit through some combination of bass and strobes.
Etsy offered a trove of artifacts from that time — fuzzy cropped sweaters, smiley-face backpacks, towering platform Buffalo boots — and throughout 2012 those looks dominated Tumblr and my favorite young style icons, whether on digital artist Molly Soda, whose colorful ensembles befit the most dedicated candy-raver (à la '90s NASA parties at Club Shelter), to Harlem rapper Azealia Banks, a house-music belle whisked straight from Limelight (before it was a mall). Soda was born in '89 and Banks in '92, but we were all having the same, cyber-driven cultural moment, fueled by tactile fabrics and an internet-crafted quasi-memory of those being the days; one of Molly Soda's Treasury Lists — essentially the Etsy equivalent of a gift registry — is a shop called "▲▲ teen witches & alien babes & mermaid princesses▲▲," and its proprietor dedicates her goods "to all the babes on Tumblr." Etsy both reflects and fuels our collective nostalgia, making available painstakingly curated vintage clothing from thrift stores across the country, which cater to our current moods and spark our interest in trends that time, up until now, forgot.
Etsy's influence impacts retail, too. Not long after cool Tumblr/Etsy gals began snapping up Luichiny Club diva shoes, Jeremy Scott remade those hologramlike miniskirts I once so coveted, reissues of the original Buffalo boots became available on Solestruck, and other reasonable simulacra of original club-kid ensembles began popping up in the same shops that sold them originally — Spencer's Gifts, anyone?
Spend enough time on Etsy and it's possible to use it as an unscientific gauge for which nostalgic trends are on deck. It's a concentrated microcosm of the way people recycle their clothes, donating to thrift stores in 15- to 20-year cycles (that's empirical info gleaned from two decades of thrift shopping) — which shows up sartorially in subcultures. The 1990s had their '70s flared jeans and Studio 54 furs — though a few quintessential '90s icons warned us about that — while the 2010s are looking increasingly to the clean-lined, androgynous CK One era for inspiration. This is partially evidenced by the supply and demand of items from the late '90s and early 2000s currently for sale through the annals of Etsy: thrift-store gems filtering upward through careful curation.
I recently searched for "Spice Girls" and hit on over 1,000 items, including several Sporty Spice–style racing-stripe dresses of the same ilk as the one I purchased last year from Opening Ceremony. Mine was DKNY — a reissue. From '94.


Thursday, April 24, 2014

The Bilingual Advantage?


I've always claimed that I am three different people in the three languages I speak since childhood. These are not completely dissimilar personalities, and as I grow odler and wiser (?) these personalities merge closer but still remain distinct, each with her own culturally-appropriate traits - in three different cultural contexts. 

And now there is scientific proof!

APRIL 23, 2014APRIL 23, 2014Multilinguals Have Multiple Personalities

In an essay published on Monday, New Republic Senior Editor Noam Scheiber—who grew up speaking both Hebrew and English—explains why he stopped speaking only Hebrew to his three-year-old daughter. “My Hebrew self turns out to be much colder, more earnest, and, let’s face it, less articulate," he writes. "In English, my natural sensibility is patient and understated. My style in Hebrew was hectoring and prosecutorial.”
I understand the feeling. My not-so-fluent French “self” is most comfortable talking about classroom supplies. It’s surprising, though, that people who are actually fluent in two languages also feel their personality shifting as they switch between languages. Yet researchers have confirmed this: Between 2001 and 2003, linguists Jean-Marc Dewaele and Aneta Pavlenko asked over a thousand bilinguals whether they “feel like a different person" when they speak different langauges. Nearly two-thirds said they did.
How does that play out in day-to-day speech? In 1964, Susan Ervin, a sociolinguist at the University of California, Berkeley, set out to explore the differences in how bilinguals represent the same stories in different languages. She recruited 64 French adults who lived in the U.S. and were fluent in both French and English. On average, they had spent 12 years living in the U.S.; 40 were married to an American. On two separate occasions, six weeks apart, Ervin gave them the Thematic Apperception Test”: She showed her subjects a series of illustrations and asked them to make up a three-minute story to accompany each scene. In one session, the volunteer and experimenter spoke only French, while the other session was conducted entirely in English.


Image from the Thematic Apperception Test
 

Image from the Thematic Apperception Test

Ervin then analyzed the stories, looking at the different themes incorporated into the narratives. When she compared the two sets of storiesshe identified some significant topical differences. The English stories more often featured female achievement, physical aggression, verbal aggression toward parents, and attempts to escape blame, while the French stories were more likely to include domination by elders, guilt, and verbal aggression toward peers.
In 1968, Ervin—by this point, “Ervin-Tripp”—designed another experiment to further explore her hypothesis that the content of bilinguals’ speech would change along with the language. This time, Ervin-Tripp looked at Japanese women living in the San Francisco area, most of whom were married to American men and many of whom had American children. Most of the women were largely isolated from other Japanese in America, and spoke Japanese only while visiting Japan or talking to their bilingual friends. Ervin-Tripp had a bilingual interviewer give the women various verbal tasks in both Japanese and in English, and found—as she expected—important differences.
For instance, when the women were asked to complete the following sentences, their answers differed depending on the language in which the questions was asked:

Scholars have also used more qualitative methods to try to understand language’s impact on personality. In 1998, Michele Koven, a researcher at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, spent a year and a half carrying out ethnographic research with bilingual Parisian adults whose parents had immigrated from Portugal. All of her subjects were fluent in both French and Portuguese, and most maintained close ties to Portugal while living in France; many planned on returning eventually, though most also had monolingual French friends. Koven focused specifically on how her subjects represented themselves in narratives of personal experience, which she elicited by asking them to recount various life events in both languages. When Koven transcribed and analyzed the content of their accounts, she saw that her subjects emphasized different traits in their characters, depending on which language they were speaking. For instance, the women in the French stories were more likely to stand up for themselves, whereas the female characters in the Portuguese narratives tended to cede to others’ demands. And their own personas changed, too. One girl, Koven writes, sounded like “an angry, hip suburbanite” when she spoke French, and a “frustrated, but patient, well-mannered bank customer who does not want attention drawn to the fact that she is an émigré” when she spoke Portuguese. Whether that’s due to the different context in which she learned French and Portuguese, an inherent difference between the two languages, or some combination, researchers have yet to figure out.

DYI Enhancements


NYMag's fashion section - The Cut - just came out with a story of critical importance for all of us who are lacking in the mammary division. I wish I had this invaluable resource at my disposal years ago!!

Check this out ladies!:

How to Stuff Your Bra When You’re a Grown-Ass Woman



Speaking of her famously bountiful breasts, Kate Upton recently mused, “Every single day, I’m like, Oh, man, it would be so much easier … if I could just take them off like they were clip-ons.” On this issue, and this issue alone, I have the upper hand over the most sexually desired woman on the planet. As a small-breasted woman, Ido have clip-on boobs. They are called “padded bras,” “Kleenex,” “sweat socks,” and silicone bra inserts with names like “Fullcuptuous,” “Cleavage Cupcakes,” and “Silicone Magic! Braza Dolly Super Wedge.”
As a tween, I stuffed my bra on a near-daily basis. Today, I don’t even bother with a “real” bra (the kind with cups and wires and hook closures) unless I am planning to stuff it. This happens two or three times a year, most recently when a man I was dating asked, “Can you dress on the slutty side of hot tonight? I want to make some guys at this party jealous.” If I’m already altering my appearance by curling my hair, slathering on makeup, and squeezing into a cinching minidress, why not change my boobs, too?
My methods, however, have changed since adolescence. We live in a sort of golden age of bra stuffing, with a vast array of cutely named silicone cutlets and DIY YouTube tutorials. But as a grown-ass woman, there is right way and a wrong way to “clip on” your one-night-only mammaries. What follows is a guide borne from the experience and observations of a double-A-cup woman and her many small-chested friends, all of whom have no personal boundaries whatsoever. As I see it, there are three key principles for boosting your boobs beyond that which a single bra can do.
1. What to Wear: The Double-Bra
“I’m like an inch away from having enough cleavage to pull this off,” an A-cup friend sighed while showing me a low-cut Zara sheath she intended to return. “Are you kidding me? One inch is easy; double-bra that shit,” I cried, yanking open my underwear drawer and throwing a padded strapless bra at her face.
As explained by the Paris Hilton character in the Nicole Richie roman à clef The Truth About Diamonds,* double-bra-ing works like this:
“If stuffing won’t work because your top is too little, wear two bras — strapless under and strappy right on top of it. Everything will be held in place and will look three times the real size.”
You can double-bra with two strappy bras, too; the key is that both bras should have molded cups and, ideally, padding. (Double-bra-ing with sports bras is basically chest-binding.) But like all bra-stuffing methods, there are perils: The next morning after I pelted her lingerie, my friend texted to inform me she’d gotten laid in her low-cut Zara dress. “WHAT DID YOU DO WITH THE EXTRA BRA?” I asked. “Threw it under the bed when he wasn’t looking,” she replied.
The double-bra is the greatest of DIY breast enhancements. If you have never double-bra-ed, go home and double-bra right now — the results will leave you breathless. Figuratively, because your tits will never before have looked that good, but also literally, because you’ll have multiple layers of high-tensile materials wrapped around your ribcage. If you are willing to endure further discomfort, consider supplementing the double-bra with an X-back: This involves pinning or tying your bra’s straps together between your shoulder blades to form an "X," which offers impressive results but can make your back and shoulders a little sore. I once X-backed so tightly my upper-armpit region went numb. I didn’t say bra stuffing would be pleasant; merely that I could get results.
2. What to Stuff: Socks

When it comes to inserting foreign objects into your bra to create the illusion of larger tits, I fall into the Jenna Marbles camp of bra stuffing: Socks are superior to all other options. This is for three reasons: First, you already own them. Cleavage Cupcakes cost $44! Spend that money on the bra, not the gelatinous wad you’ll be discarding as quickly as possible if anyone sees you naked. [For more on the Stuffing Dignity Debate, see Principle 3 below.] A padded bra with a sock inside feels roughly the same as a padded bra without a sock inside — that is, a sort of stiff foaminess mediating between hand and tit. As one who has hooked up well into adulthood with socks in her bras — and proceeded to interrogate her hookups afterward — the sock doesn’t make that big of a difference. He’ll be too busy looking at the tops of your breasts, which will be sticking out anyway.
Second, socks are versatile. You can use a big ol’ sweat sock for mega-boost, or ankle-height hosiery for a teensy one. As a grown-ass woman, your breast-enhancing goal is likely no longer “the bigger the better,” but something garment- or event-specific. Generally the most effective method is to fold the sock in half, then place it on the bottom of the bra cup, the same place where a padded bra has padding. You’re adding more padding.
Finally, like the double-bra move, socks can be tossed out of a bra and kicked under the bed or hidden behind the toilet in a manner that suggests preexisting messiness. If you sneak to the bathroom to stow them in your purse, socks are lighter and more compact than silicone cutlets, too.
3. When to Say No: Silicone, Cotton Balls, Duct Tape
Some would argue that, as a grown-ass woman, there is more dignity in using your hard-earned money to purchase devices specifically engineered to improve boobs — padded bras, silicone cutlets, surgical implants — than there is sticking socks in your bra. I disagree. As a grown-ass woman, you are financially literate, confident, and in control. You do not waste your money on mammary novelties invented for narcissistic celebrities to wear on red carpets in borrowed dresses. You spend your money on the dress itself; on the party you’re attending; and on the room of your own where you store your bras, socks, and safety pins. Grown-ass women are in charge of their own bodies; they bra stuff as they please, and they do not need “lingerie accessories” in hot-pink packaging to make it feel socially acceptable.
And if plausible deniability is something you care about, a breast-shaped wedge of silicone cannot be explained away.
Some materials I do not recommend for DIY bra stuffing, however: Kleenex, toilet paper, cotton balls, or other disposable paper products, which are difficult to make stay in place and have a tendency to clump, pill, slip out the sides, and fall apart. I also do not recommendduct-tape bras, which are an old-school pageant strategy for which you use industrial-strength adhesives to hold your tits in the exact place where you like them. Duct tape isn’t calibrated for three-dimensional curves; duct-tape bras get pokey and pointy and the tape sticks itself and folds awkwardly all the time.
And then there are the times it behooves one to embrace small-breastedness and eschew stuffing and bras altogether. Swimwear and backless dresses come to mind. The joy of being small breasted enough to go totally braless when a sternum-baring gown demands it! For all the pain you endure the two and a half times a year that you undergo the above tortures to create the illusion of cleavage, remember that the freedom to go braless in a backless dress is your reward. This is the freedom Kate Upton will never know; revel in it.
For, as glorious as your artificially enhanced DIY cleavage may be, the true freedom of bra stuffing is the freedom of choice — to stuff or not to stuff, the decision is yoursWith this article, I have merely educated you to the available options; but only you can decide what kind of breasts are right for you. It’s your body. Be as fake-boobed basic as you want to be, or as bralessly bohemian as you please.
* I read the whole book. It is a remarkable document of the dying days of pre-Kardashian-era pseudofame.

Auteur Theory


Some summers ago JV was visting us on the Cape and the husband decided we must watch "Pineapple Express". Since then we have been a house divided - I am convinced that the movie is a large bong of nothing, he is certain it is a great comedy. Why am I brining it up, ye ask? Well, it was a movie James Franco got a Golden Globe nomination for. And James Franco, you see, is now no longer just stoner auteur - he is a visual artist. 

Pace Gallery in NY (not an unknown venue by any standard) is hosting Franco as 'artist in residence' and his work is right now on view. What work, ye ask? Well, photography. And a 'critical take' on Cindy Sherman. Which means that Franco dresses and poses in a similar way to Sherman's now-iconic "Film Stills" series and gets photographed doing so. 

Like so: 
James Franco
James Franco

It almost pains me physically to give you the originals on the same page as these 'takes' but for the sake of argument here we go:
Cindy Sherman, Unititled Film Still #14, 1978

                                                   Cindy Sherman, Unititled Film Still

Now, don't get me wrong. I don't hold any artwork sacred and inviolable. It is fine to draw a mustache on a reproduction of a Mona Lisa; it is fine to restage Sherman's stills. The question is one of motivation and message. What is the point of Franco's masquarade? When Sherman produced the first "Film Stills" (greater, to my mind, than any others she attempted since) she managed to ask biting questions about gender roles, constructions, and stereotypes by turning cliches onto their heads (so to speak, since it was her own head she was using in the process). Her commentary was sly, and it was sullen, and it screamed in its silence. And while she wanted to make a name for herself, the fact that she used her own image was not an act of visual self-promotion. Franco, conversely, evacuates any social commentary out of the images, drains the questions they raise, and leaves only one thing - James Franco himself. You could counter and claim that his images are packed with humor. Sure, a bearded man posing as a woman is hilariously funny. If you are four years old. This kind of humor cannot even count as sophomoric. It is infantile, and infantalizing. 

Here are two cogent reviews of the Franco idiocy. Shame on Pace for giving this nonentity the limelight and the space. 

Everybody Is Playing Somebody Else Here

                         ‘James Franco: New Film Stills’ Arrives at Pace Gallery



Perhaps James Franco should just stick to acting. He remains embarrassingly clueless when it comes to art.
In his latest art world foray, following previous outings in galleries and commissions for Performa, Mr. Franco is filling a celebrity artist slot at Pace Gallery, similar to the one that Bob Dylan occupies at Gagosian. His Pace debut is “New Film Stills,” a series of his photographs that restages some of Cindy Sherman’s seminal “Untitled Film Stills” of 1977-80 with what is supposed to be respectful transparency but comes across as uncomprehending cynicism.
In her film stills, Ms. Sherman all but disappeared into various female stereotypes bestowed upon women by film: the new-to-the-city secretary, the put-upon housewife, the sex kitten, the single glamour girl. Mr. Franco, in contrast, is never less than Mr. Franco, his mustache, beard or hairy legs in full view, his face in an expression of studied vulnerability or simply a look-at-me smirk.
Maybe he sees what he’s doing as reverse feminism, an act of empathic dislocation — which is the argument made by the poet Frank Bidart in the catalog essay. Mainly, we sense Mr. Franco once more playing himself, dipping a toe simultaneously in the waters of art and demi-drag.
And it only gets worse. In addition to reproducing the 25 or so images presented in the show, the catalog contains 65 excruciatingly sophomoric poems written by Mr. Franco in reaction to nearly all the Sherman film stills. Often written from the woman’s point of view, these are either printed on their own or paired with the appropriate Franco do-over image.
The deep content here, beneath the entitled narcissism, is a confused desperation that seems to drive Mr. Franco’s pursuit of visual art. It’s hard not to feel some sympathy for him, while also wishing that someone or something would make him stop.
2) Jessica Dawson in The Daily Beast: - I don't think her tagline: "Is James Franco really an artist" means anything. I don't care who is, or can be, a real artist. It is that what he produced is NOT art. But everything else stands:



Why Does the Art World Coddle James Franco?


The art world loves the star attention the actor brings so much so that it accepts his ‘art’ without much scrutiny. In his new exhibit, though, Franco goes a step too far.
Is James Franco really an artist? He must be, because he just opened a major show at New York’s blue chip Pace Gallery, which represents Chuck Close, Maya Lin, and a host of living and dead creative legends.
Yet many art world insiders consider actor/serial dilettante Franco’s work nothing more than a joke, though few will admit that for the record, and even then, elliptically. A paparazzi-magnet, Franco’s presence in myriad exhibitions reflects an insecure art world’s seemingly harmless infatuation with celebrity and hunger for validation. In exchange for photo ops  with the likes of MoMA PS1 director Klaus Biesenbach—because who outside the art world even knows who that is?—Franco’s pratfalls are humored.
The mutually beneficial relationship began around 2010, when Franco, who played a performance artist in a small role onGeneral Hospital, arranged for both the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art and its then-director, Jeffrey Deitch, to make cameos on the soap. Though Franco had made some artworks in the late 2000s, he wasn’t embraced by the likes of Alanna Heiss, the founder and former director of P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center, until the summer of 2010, when she curated Franco’s first solo show in New York. There was also a stint in a “performance art music-based duo” with legit artist Kalup Linzy, a turn in a group pop-up show called “Rebel,” in collaboration with LA MOCA, in which Franco presented what art critic Hunter Drohojowska-Philp called a “chaotic deconstruction” of the film Rebel Without a Cause, a video called “My Own Private River” in collaboration with filmmaker Gus van Sant, a turn in highly legit artist Isaac Julien’s lavish film “Playtime,” and a so-called gallery exhibition last summer, curated by the genuinely talented Turner Prize-winning artist Douglas Gordon.
Franco’s flirtation with the museum and gallery system seemed okay, even funny, in an eye-rolling kind of way. As for write-ups of these efforts, you’ll only find Q and As and features; no art critic has taken him seriously enough to actually write about his work. 
But Franco’s latest endeavor, on view at New York’s Pace Gallery through May 3, thumbs its nose so glaringly at the art world, and from a stance of such entitlement, that all the artists, curators, and dealers that have been photographed alongside him might want to rethink their position.
For his Pace exhibition “New Film Stills,” Franco re-creates art world luminary Cindy Sherman’s iconic “Untitled Film Stills,” a series begun in 1977 that’s now recognized as one of the smartest, slyest, and most meaningful feminist critiques ever made. As Sherman herself starred in that series, so Franco stars–in drag–in his re-dos.
For “Untitled Film Stills,” Sherman dressed and posed like the clichéd images of women that she saw on film and TV. She put her ordinary self inside pictures that a movie studio might release: here was the starlet on vacation, in her kitchen, enjoying a cocktail. Over three years, Sherman enacted more and more types—there are 69 pictures in all—from the snappy career girl, a la Mary Tyler Moore, to the brawny housefrau. In each image, Sherman embodies a new role, with a wardrobe and makeup job to match every occasion. Sherman took the pictures herself using a shutter release cord that she didn’t bother to hide: it winked at the constructions behind popular imagery.Franco sophomorically re-creates Sherman’s poses, some more faithfully than others, dressed in a kind of noncommittal drag. He dons kerchiefs and wigs, housedresses and lingerie, but his transformation stops there. His signature scruff—the goatee, the hairy legs—remains front and center, reminding us that he’s a manly man who’s playing at womanhood. Like a frat-boy prank, the series looks as if Franco had a fun afternoon in New Orleans (where many of these pictures were shot).
In a gallery press release, Franco claims he’s criticizing the celebrity-making machine from the inside, just as Sherman critiqued it from the outside. “These photos allow me to take a step to the side, look back, and refashion the work I do in Hollywood,” he says. But by playing for a laugh–because that’s what Franco gets when he’s in drag–he both undermines Sherman’s efforts and obfuscates the fact that he is making no point at all. What we’re left with is pictures of James Franco, a powerful white guy having a good time being famous.  
The blog Gallerist NY recently asked Sherman what she thought of Franco’s efforts. “I was flattered,” Sherman is reported to have said. “I don’t know that I can say it’s art, but I think it’s weirder that Pace would show them than that he would make them.”
It is really weird that Pace would show them. And it just might tell us how far adrift that gallery—and a good chunk of the art world—really is.