Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Dream Job

When I grow up I want to be a buyer for Berdgorf. Or a trend forecaster. Check out the following interview (from The Business of Fashion):

Role Call | Andrea Bell, Retail Editor and Trend Forecaster

Andrea Bell, a retail and consumer editor at trend forecasting agency WGSN, says that you have to be immersed in all aspects of culture to catch the next big thing.
There are few sectors of the economy that offer as wide and interesting a range of career opportunities as fashion. In a new series that coincides with the launch of BoF Careers, the global marketplace for fashion talent, we highlight some of the industry’s most interesting jobs and the talented people who do them.
LOS ANGELES, United States — Trend forecasting and analysis agencies are vital to design-led businesses, which rely on their ability to research and distill macro trends and movements down to actionable information like which textiles to purchase or where to open store locations. Andrea Bell is an editor in trend forecasting agency WGSN’s retail and consumer insights division, where she is responsible for identifying and analysing trends for a range of clients.
BoF: Please describe your current role.
AB: My main remit is Americas retail analysis and includes everything from new store openings and retail expansion strategies to identifying emerging consumer tribes and the current consumer mindset.
However, as we are a global company, the international teams are keen on feeding in inspirational materials and features to other directories whenever possible, which I think is one of the strongest selling points about the company.
For example, in December my features included a Seattle street art inspiration photo file, a new store report on Acne’s Los Angeles flagship, US holiday messaging analysis, repurposed retail spaces in the Pacific Northwest, a holiday pop-up feature on Google’s Winter Wonderlabs and I contributed beauty VM [visual merchandising] photos for our holiday VM round-up.
As cliché as it sounds, our content team truly strives to provide a global touch-pulse for our clients. While we all stick to our main remit, if we find something inspirational/valuable outside our directory, we work with the other teams to produce the feature.
BoF: What attracted you to your current role?
AB: I’ve always been fascinated with the evolution of trends within consumer groups. What are the different call-to-actions based on age, sex, location, or demographics? What is the next consumer tribe? What market is being underserved and overlooked, et cetera?
The thin line between capturing the consumer and gaining a brand loyalist or being lambasted on social media is always evolving and I have to find it.
My role is part-social anthropologist, part-researcher, and part-forecaster, with lots of travel and airport dinners involved. Despite airplane cuisine, I’m very fortunate to have the opportunity to travel for my work.
Whether it’s covering fashion weeks in Peru or Brazil, attending conferences in San Francisco, Honolulu, Park City, and Las Vegas (seriously, I’m in Sin City quarterly), or visiting our corporate office in London – I can’t complain. (Unless I’m stuck in a security line, behind the gentlemen who refuses to throw away his water and doesn’t understand why his computer has to be removed.)
My work life sometimes resembles Indiana Jones sans the khakis and bodyguards. Most of the time, it’s just me, an iPhone, a camera and penchant for discovery.
BoF: What is the most exciting project or initiative you have worked on recently?
AB: Working with the global teams is one of my favourite parts of the job, and we recently wrapped the global retail presentation and the macro trend forecasts in London.
It’s difficult to not feel enthused when seeing what art movements are coming out of Asia, how retailers are engaging the youth market in Brazil, and the early adopter trends in America.
The teamwork is incredible and the presentations are thought-provoking. Throw in a catered lunch, plenty of tea and coffee, and celebratory cocktails, and it’s hard not to feel proud and inspired.
BoF: How is your role changing? What are the forces driving this change?
AB: I think the biggest changes in my role are speed-to-website, driven largely by digital natives and global online connectivity. These days, it seems like everyone with smart phone is a photographer, writer, and Insta-celebrity. (I once had a potential intern bring Facebook posts as her writing samples.)
While the Internet of Everything provides an immense resource pool and is an asset to my work, my lead time for stories isn’t mere minutes. The majority of my features are stat and data heavy, involving a fair amount of fact-checking and confirmations before being sent to my editor.
Our reports have to be insightful, informative, and valuable to our clients, who thankfully know the difference between analysis and snippets.
That being said, while we don’t publish at the speed of a celebrity gossip site, we have numerous features going live daily, thanks to an extremely hardworking (and exhausted) production, subbing and tagging team.
BoF: Tell us a story about a failure and how you learned from it.
AB: I once interned for a very well-known fashion editor. I was young, eager and desperate for a byline and she could sense this a mile away. I had to write a test piece to get the position, which was later published word-for-word in the magazine with her byline. I kept my mouth shut, never confronting her or informing her boss.
I learned three valuable lessons:
1. Being a doormat means you’ll always be stepped on. While I don’t recommend sending a company-wide email airing your grievances or bringing it up at the staff breakfast, speak to someone in senior management if you feel you’re being taken advantage of.
2. Interns are the next senior staff. Treat interns and entry-level employees with respect. Try a proactive rather than reactive approach to their mistakes or office snafus, suggesting how they can do things differently and/or improve on their work ethic and etiquette.
3. Like an ill-fated tweet, your reputation precedes you. The fashion industry is a tight-knit community and word travels fast. If you’re known for diva-like behavior, antics and a poor work ethic, you will have trouble moving up the ladder. The same editor who published my work had trouble getting hired at other publications, as her plagiarism was well known.
BoF: What advice do you have to offer for people who are interested in trend forecasting?
AB: I think the biggest misconception from potential forecasters is that we only look at fashion. Of course, a fashion background is a strong foundation to predict seasonal key items and long-term category (womenswear, juniors, menswear) forecasts but most trend analysts dive deeper than just silhouettes. Our juniors editor, Sarah Owen, constantly sources inspiration beyond the catwalks – she’s at gallery openings, trying new cuisine, even visiting hot NYC workout spots to get active inspiration.
My two pieces of advice are pretty simple but necessary: be aware and read.
A good trend forecaster is constantly aware of the shifts in the marketplace, rumbles in the art world, music, and fashion world. You don’t have to be a hipster to get up early and go digging for records at a flea market, but the hunt may lead you to early adopters. Truly immerse yourself in culture and you’ll find the common threads that lead to the big pictures.
And read, absorb everything you can. No matter how late I’m out or how jetlagged I may be, I always read an hour before going to bed. If that’s not an option, find the time whether it’s on the train, metro, lunch hour. If you have an hour to play Angry Birds or stalk your ex on Facebook, your schedule can be easily adjusted.

Love hurts

A lesson in less is more is provided by the Pont des Arts bridge in the city of lights (from The Independent):

Part of Paris bridge collapses under weight of 'love locks' left by tourists

PARIS


There is such a thing as too much love.
A section of the metal mesh on the Pont des Arts footbridge over the Seine in Paris collapsed last night under the weight of the thousands of "love-locks" attached to the bridge by couples.
The bridge was immediately closed to the public and was under repair today. It is expected to re-open tomorrow.
A five feet long section of metal mesh fell inwards onto the bridge itself. Officials said that the design of the bridge made it impossible for debris to fall onto pleasure boats and barges on the river Seine.
All the same, the incident seems certain to intensify the arguments which have raged for several months on the safety - and alleged ugliness - of the 700,000 padlocks which have covered the Pont des Arts and other Seine footbridges over the last six years.
The practice is believed to have started in Russia but has spread all over the world. It is especially common in Paris, the city of lovers.
Couples from all over the world declare their undying affection for one another by placing their initials on a padlock, fastening it to a bridge and throwing the key into the river.
In Paris, the craze began in 2008 on the Pont des Arts, which spans the 150metres between the Tuileries gardens and the Musee d'Orsay. It has since spread to all footbridges across the Seine.
Two young Americans living in Paris started a petition in March calling for the locks to be removed because they were ugly and could damage the bridges. 
An internet rumour began in April suggesting that the Pont des Arts, festooned with locks weighing an estimated 40 tons, was threatened with collapse.
Paris town hall said that the rumour had begun when a section of the metal grill covering the bridge parapets was replaced as part of routine repairs.

Be/Cos


Good news for affordable fashion in the USA - the fantastic Euro brand COS is coming stateside. COS, with headquarters in Sweden, is the upmarket cousin of H&M - but with much better fabrics, better workmanship, less trend driven, and more expensive. Unlike H&M the brand has its own distinct aesthetic rather than being a speedy replicator of the latest hot thing on the street. COS is starkly minimalist and structural, rarely overtly slinky or sexy. No wonder I've been waiting breathlessly for it to traverse the ocean.

The brick and mortar store is opening in NYC sometime in the summer. But their online storefront has just now opened up shipping to the USA - and it is free. To celebrate their immigration the store offers a discount of 25% to first time American shoppers. You can find them here: http://www.cosstores.com/us/

A virtual jog through the store is predictably exciting. Here are some standouts:














Monday, June 9, 2014

Online Shopping

I have been an online shopper for quite a while now - although I miss the pleasure of the physical experience the convenience is often key in my attitude towards acquisition. Granted, online shopping in the USA is hugely rich and easy to access. The story below from Forbes  offers snapshots of the women behind some of the most successful sites.. These are all success stories, to be sure, but they did not appear out of thin air nor did they pull themselves up by the bootstraps.

I suppose I am jealous. Especially of Rent the Runway.

Anyways,  read below. And thank you to KL for bringing it to my attention!

The Power Women Who Are Reinventing The Way You Shop Fashion Online

They don’t code. They’re not designers. And they definitely don’t walk around in hoodies. But these six tech founders are changing the face of the $54 billionapparel e-commerce market. Their multi-million dollar companies are reinventing retail with new brands and platforms that are altering our appetite for shopping — and where and how we buy.
E-tailers creating businesses for other women have arrived, tapping into their 71% of online spending in apparel and accessories. The entrepreneurs featured below are not alone: Sophia Amoruso’s Nasty Gal has almost a million global customers and a reported $100 million in annual sales. Susan Feldman and Ali Pincus’ One Kings Lane, purveyor of home decor (not fashion but sharing the same customer base), was valued at just under $1 billion in its recent Series E round. Birchbox, Hayley Barna and Katia Beauchamp’s beauty subscription service, has raised nearly $72 million.
Katrina Lake’s two-year-old personal shopping service, Stitch Fix, has raised close to $17 million, and Aslaug Magnusdottir, formerly of Moda Operandi, just launched Tinker Tailor, a marketplace for customized designer clothes. Taken together, these entrepreneurs represent a stylish retort to the oft heard lament: “Where are the women in tech?”

Moda Operandi: Lauren Santo Domingo
Quick Pitch: Couture before it hits retail. Founded: 2010. Funding: $71 million. Average order: $1,600-plus ($5,000 for elite customers). Top designers: Isabel Marant, Valentino, Prabal Gurung. Pedigree: Voguecontributing editor. Other half: Andres Santo Domingo, heir to Colombia’s richest beer family. Tech or not: “I am constantly feeling pressure to act as if we are a tech company. And I don’t feel that. We’re a luxury fashion company powered by a tech side.”
“Just having a clever idea and technological savvy isn’t enough for the fashion business. It’s not an industry where someone can come in lacking the intimate knowledge because so much is based on relationships, taste, vision and ultimately trust. This is not about disrupting a system. I love this industry. I love these designers. And I love this customer.”

Net-a-Porter: Natalie Massenet
Quick Pitch: Online magazine that sells the spreads. Founded: 2000. ­Employees: Over 2,500. Monthly ­visitors: 5 million. Acquired: Luxury groupRichemont bought a majority stake in 2010. Estimated valuation: $3.4 billion.Average order: $900-plus. Pedigree: Former fashion editor at Tatler; mother was a Chanel model. Brand extension: Print magazine Porter, social shopping platform Netbook. Ambitions: “We’re trying to own a category. And unlike Amazon, which is a fantastic place to get everything, we want to be the destination for fashion.”
“Technology is at the heart of what we do. If you come to our offices, we look like Google. We have hackathons. It’s what we talk about. But we’re also obsessed with fashion, service logistics, operations, automation and content.”

Wanelo: Deena Varshavskaya
Quick Pitch: Social shopping. Founded: 2011. Funding: $14 million. Valuation: $100 million-plus. Employees: 33. Registered users: 11 million. Traffic from mobile: 85%. Fangirls: Fashion Squad’s Carolina Engman, The Cut’s Veronica Gledhill and Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine. Signature look: Bold print dress, leather jacket. Path to Success: Moved from Siberia to New Jersey at 16. “Malls were a really frustrating experience.”
“In April 2011 I shut my design agency, ended a ten-year relationship and moved from L.A. to S.F. to get funding. But I was a solo nontech female founder without a team. I didn’t fit the pattern. Forty rejections later I closed my first round. I still get regret notes from VCs who said no.”

Joyus: Sukhinder Singh Cassidy
Quick Pitch: Watch a video, find the perfect anything. Founded: 2011.Employees: 35. Funding: $20 million. Monthly customers: 6,000. Power play: Four acquisitions in three years totaling $2 million. Path to success: Born in Tanzania, grew up in St. Catherine’s, Canada, and an original Silicon Valley girl. Women in tech: “It’s a much more crowded field today — in a good way. There is a rise of founders from non-engineering fields who have consumer vision and insight in categories like e-commerce.” Her résumé includes Amazon, Google, Accel Partners and Polyvore.
“My best lesson [from former boss Jeff Bezos] was that e-commerce begins in the search box. The best customer experience isn’t about exclusive rights to every product on your platform. It’s about satisfying every customer query.”

Rent the Runway: Jenny Fleiss (left), Jenn Hyman
Quick Pitch: Borrow, don’t buy. Founded: 2009. Funding: $54 million.Employees: 250. Members: 4 million. Rentals in 2014: $250 million in retail value. Customer faves: Marchesa, Narciso Rodriguez, Vera Wang. Brand extension: New York and Las Vegas retail stores. Daily question for CTO: “Did we hire any engineers yesterday?”
“The idea that I had gone to Harvard twice and my cofounder had gone to Yale and then Harvard Business School credentialed us in a way that created a bond with the male VCs who had also gone to Harvard Business School or had gone to Stanford Business School. At least in that capacity, we were similar.” — Jenn Hyman.

Tim Gunn

Those of you who don't watch reality TV might not know who Tim Gunn is - but to some he is a celeb of the best kind - never trashy, never over-exposed. A dean at NYC's Parsons School of Design Gunn became a household name when he first appeared on Project Runway 10 years ago. Since then the recurrent reality competition show has made him rather famous - he is easily recognized for his grave and serious voice and deamanor, his solid advice, and formally crisp personal style.

Anyways, Gunn did a small cameo on my favorite weekend comedy radio show, NPR's Wait Wait.. where he told a hilarious story. I don't want to spoil it for you, so follow the link and listen to the whole thing or read the transcript. It isn't long and is guaranteed to make you laugh:

http://www.wbur.org/npr/319423432/not-my-job-project-runways-tim-gunn-gets-quizzed-on-terrible-fashion



Sunday, June 8, 2014

Public Sevice Announcement

By and large book lists are crap, but every now and then you may discover in them something of true value. With that in mind, those interested in summer reading LATimes has a handy taxonomy:

http://www.latimes.com/books/jacketcopy/la-et-jc-summer-books-2014-20140528-story.html

Enjoy your summer reading, ladies!

Pants to that!


Sister-in-law returned (about a decade ago, but what is time between friends?) from her doctoral studies in the UK armed with a few fantastically unique expressions that are unknown in the larger English-speaking world. My favorite is 'pants to that' - which,  I believe, means something akin to 'screw it'. Because the innocuous 'pants' apparently has a very negative connotation over on the island. Not that I am certain or anything.. - them Brits have the darnedest slang.

Anyways, they might take offense at the following title, but the story is kinda cool:

First pants worn by horse riders 3,000 years ago

Oldest known trousers originated in Central Asia






Two men whose remains were recently excavated from tombs in western China put their pants on one leg at a time, just like the rest of us. But these nomadic herders did so between 3,300 and 3,000 years ago, making their trousers the oldest known examples of this innovative apparel, a new study finds.
With straight-fitting legs and a wide crotch, the ancient wool trousers resemble modern riding pants, says a team led by archaeologists Ulrike Beck and Mayke Wagner of the German Archaeological Institute in Berlin. The discoveries, uncovered in the Yanghai graveyard in China’s Tarim Basin, support previous work suggesting that nomadic herders in Central Asia invented pants to provide bodily protection and freedom of movement for horseback journeys and mounted warfare, the scientists report May 22 in Quaternary International.
“This new paper definitely supports the idea that trousers were invented for horse riding by mobile pastoralists, and that trousers were brought to the Tarim Basin by horse-riding peoples,” remarks linguist and China authority Victor Mair of the University of Pennsylvania.
Previously, Europeans and Asians wore gowns, robes, tunics, togas or — as observed on the 5,300-year-old body of Ötzi the Iceman — a three-piece combination of loincloth and individual leggings.
A dry climate and hot summers helped preserve human corpses, clothing and other organic material in the Tarim Basin. More than 500 tombs have been excavated in a graveyard there since the early 1970s.
Earlier research on mummies from several Tarim Basin sites, led by Mair, identified a 2,600-year-old individual known as Cherchen Man who wore burgundy trousers probably made of wool. Trousers of Scythian nomads from West Asia date to roughly 2,500 years ago.
Mair suspects that horse riding began about 3,400 years ago and trouser-making came shortly thereafter in wetter regions to the north and west of the Tarim Basin. Ancient trousers from those areas are not likely to have been preserved, Mair says.
Horse riding’s origins are uncertain and could date to at least 4,000 years ago, comments archaeologist Margarita Gleba of University College London. If so, she says, “I would not be surprised if trousers appeared at least that far back.”
The two trouser-wearing men entombed at Yanghai were roughly 40 years old and had probably been warriors as well as herders, the investigators say. One man was buried with a decorated leather bridle, a wooden horse bit, a battle-ax and a leather bracer for arm protection. Among objects placed with the other body were a whip, a decorated horse tail, a bow sheath and a bow.
Beck and Wagner’s group obtained radiocarbon ages of fibers from both men’s trousers, and of three other items in one of the tombs.
Each pair of trousers was sewn together from three pieces of brown-colored wool cloth, one piece for each leg and an insert for the crotch. The tailoring involved no cutting: Pant sections were shaped on a loom in the final size. Finished pants included side slits, strings for fastening at the waist and woven designs on the legs.
Beck and Wagner’s team calls the ancient invention of trousers “a ground-breaking achievement in the history of cloth making.” That’s not too shabby for herders who probably thought the Gap was just a place to ride their horses through.