Sunday, June 1, 2014

Surfing the Cruise Collections: Louis Vuitton


The collection was presented in Monaco concurrently with the Cannes Film Festival. The inspiration, however, was not so much movie stars as star fish. Nicolas Ghesquière, in his second collection for the label since Marc Jacobs' departure, focused on marine life as the main source for his imagery.
Like so:





What do I think about it, ye ask?

Well, by now some of you may know that I prefer abstraction to figuration where patterns are concerned (my views on painting are diametrically opposed most of the time). In fact, I would amend that statement to say the following: patterns are most successful when either hyper-naturalistic (recent spate of silk-screened photographs, such as Mary Katrantzou's, come to mind) or far, far removed from their natural starting point. Everything in the middle ends up looking a bit clumsy and try-hardy in my view. Like this Vuitton. The cuts of the clothes are not interesting, structure is trite, color combinations garish. While I understand the desire to make a splash at the runway presentation much of Vuitton's line struck me as plain awkward or deliberately ugly.

Like so:


Even when perfectly acceptable, like this scuba dress below, the effect lacked in any newness, since scuba dresses have been up and down runways for the past two years. Hell, even high-street stores have had scuba stuff by now.

Or, when trying to mix and mis-match patterns a similar clumsiness struck:


Mind you, I seem to be in a minority - critic reviews were on the raving side. Where the critics saw exuberant fun, however, I see an inability to edit.

If you want to see the show live, here is a link: http://www.style.com/stylefile/2014/05/louis-vuittons-cruise-15-show-live-monaco/

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