Sunday, May 11, 2014

Style Covet - Kate Lanphear


A signature look is perhaps the most covetable concept for most of us peons. Women (or men, for that matter) who have a look that is distinctly, uniquely, theirs, immediately recognizable. As with anything that becomes a major commitment there is a danger there, it is much too easy to traverse into a caricature, an exaggerated version of your style that has morphed into a brand, or worse, a joke. But if you can sustain a solid, continuous engagement with a single look - well then, you're a master dresser.

I'm not interested in a signature look if said style was questionable to begin with, or overtly theatrical. For example, Helena Bohnam Carter is no style icon over here  at Vestments although she does dress within consistent style parameters - a Victorian street walker on opium. The look works for her, but it does not a great style make, you know? Gwen Stephani, on the other hand, is - her look is her own, you can't miss-identify her, and she owns it, and while theatrical to a degree it is also something that a civilian might be able to copy (which is of course the whole premise of her fashion line, L.A.M.B, which is quite good).

Today's style covet is Kate Lanphear. Why is she the first, ye may ask? Over the past few years I've found her style to be the one I covet the most, and it was not because of the Princeton sweatshirt (he brother's).  I don't have access to her closet full of perfectly tailored designer clothing but many of her looks can be pulled off through lower end fashion retailers such as Zara or Theory. Finally, she's my first, inaugural style covet because the woman swims with the biggest sartorial sharks around and yet managed to look distinct pretty much from the start.  A signature look to be envious of.

Kate Lanphear is the former long-time Style Director at the American Elle, which she left in the fall of 2012, and now is the Style Editor for T, the NYTimes style magazine. Her look, ye ask? Couture punk. Platinum white sharp super cropped asymmetrical bob, minimal makeup, strong jewelry, super high heels. And the clothes? Mostly monochrome (black-gray-white); lots of leather; strong shoulder lines; some punk staples like tears and pins. Lanphear has a knack for making 80s items look fresh (case in point: she should be credited with bringing animal sweaters back). Like so:


Lanphear's style is highly consistent - here is a selection of photos from the last 4 years and other than a minor differences in hair length you can't pin the year down:





Copying her style exactly would not work for 99% of us. She is too thin, her features too perfectly small and lovely, her legs too fantastic, her heels too tall, and finally her punk too emphasized for most ordinary women leading ordinary lives. That said, if you are into harder edges then borrowing elements from her look will absolutely work.

Which, ye may ask?

1) masculine edge even in feminine outfits (blazers, belts, button down shirts, something chunky)
2) crisp tailoring over frilly and ruffly
3) monochromatic or nearly monochromatic dressing helps with keeping a clean line

None of these three simple principles are sole property of designer wear. Walk your fingers over to Zara.com and you will find much to work with. Maybe that's the reason why Zara has replaced JCrew in my heart.

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